5 stars with a slight modification, 3 stars as is. First off, please know that most animal experts/humane centers don't recommend catch and release in a new territory for healthy squirrels as their survival rates are very low. Squirrels are territorial and very hard to relocate successfully. Most actually recommend using a "exit only" trap door to get them out of trouble spots and just let them build a new home in the area. Then patch up the hole when you know they are gone. But, you may just have a problem squirrel that insists on coming back with genes for chewing wood. With the risk of causing a fire in the attack, this is your choice to get them gone for good with at least a chance for survival. For those who chose this method, the below is what I found to be the safest and most effective. The modification - As is, this was not sensitive enough to catch squirrels. They would go in, eat and leave. It seems that some are sensitive and some are not. If you get one that is not sensitive enough, it's easy to adjust. I read a great deal about people adding weight to the trigger plate and bending other parts of the product. Without a doubt, the most simple is to tape a penny or two to the metal plate on top of the trap, immediately under the handle when the handle is pulled back to set the trap. You can see the proper location for where I did this in the first picture...two pennies and some electrical tape. Once you do this and test it out, you will see what I mean about how that increases the sensitivity. However, you don't want it too sensitive such that the door closes when the animal first steps into the box and maybe vibrates the trap. This could cause the door to close on its tail or leg and may cause injury. Bait for squirrels - Peanut butter is by far the best. However, I learned from mistakes. Don't put too much in. The squirrel is inevitably going to freak out once trapped. The very first one I caught was literally covered in peanut butter and I probably set him up for a pretty lousy last days of life. Either he was going to be his new squirrel buddies' best friend, or I just made him an easy to smell snack for another animal. With how good an animal's sense of smell is, it's going to be very difficult for him to now hide. I recommend using a small amount of peanut butter and mix it with crushed nuts so it's not as sticky/messy. When to catch/release - you'll know if one is trying to nest in your roof/attic, probably by late fall. Catch them as soon as possible so that they can try to still make a new nest for winter or if you really care about their survival, you might wait until springtime and even with new babies, they may leave on their own and you can plug up the hole. But if you really have no choice and want them as far away as possible and it's not spring, consider taking a look at the weather and pick a day when it might be a bit warmer after. If you really want to help the critter out in a new territory, when you release, bring some nuts/food with you and toss it on the ground to get him started. Even better would be a neighborhood that has a constant source of food...like bird feeders. A random forest seems like the obvious choice, but there will be very little food supply that is not already claimed. Please know that most relocated squirrels don't survive much longer than 3 months. Squirrels are very territorial and it's hart to create a home. Also, if possible, try not to catch in late Feb and early March, when a squirrel may very well be pregnant. If you catch a pregnant squirrel then (you can usually tell b/c they are fatter and less nimble), you might want to consider keeping it caged while you can patch up any hole it may have made and release it in the same area. Some pregnant females apparently have back up nests in the area and will hopefully find their way there rather than persist on going back to the primary nests. If you really want to reduce the squirrel population in your area and really don't care about the females survival, then so be it; however, try to pick an area where she may be able to find a safe spot rather quickly but know, she and her babies are unlikely to survive. At least you give them a chance though. Monitor your cage - if the animal is stuck in there a really long time, they will end up hurting themselves. They will damage their noses most often trying to squirm through holes. For squirrels, don't leave out overnight, this works well enough and squirrels are active during the day, so you should be able to get the squirrel you are after while you are available to monitor the trap. Once caught, use an opaque towel over it to cover the cage and keep the animal calm. Sometimes, they seem fine and just finish eating your bait, but sometimes they freak out so much, it seems the cage is carrying a small dragon. Trap location - anywhere you have problem squirrels! However, since I know that the only squirrels that get in my roof climb up a tree to get to there so I put mine on the roof by that tree. However, if you do this and wherever you set your trap, make sure to secure it somehow (not necessary if it's on a large flat surface like a deck or the ground). I wedge my trap between my ladder and on top of a rubber mat. Again, lesson learned from when one freaked out so much, he managed to shake/slide the cage off the roof and I found them both on the ground...thankfully unharmed. It would really stink to go through all this trouble to be humane, only to then be responsible for hurting the animal. You took the trouble to buy a live trap rather than a deadly method, so you might as well take the extra efforts to use this in a way that gives the animal the best chance for survival. I don't proclaim to be an expert so do more research if you care to and please leave your own recommendations if you find something that works better than the above. Good luck!
