Interface de contato zero Tekonsha ZCI™ Universal ModuLite® e kit de instalação

Name: Interface de contato zero Tekonsha ZCI™ Universal ModuLite® e kit de instalação
Brand: Tekonsha
SKU: 0016118114812
Price: 402.56 EUR
Availability: InStock

Brand:Tekonsha

3.2/5

€
402.56

Interface de contato ModuLite ZCI Xero Os módulos de alimentação universais usam uma conexão direta com a bateria do veículo de reboque para alimentar as luzes de parada, curva, cauda e funcionamento do trailer, com contato absolutamente zero com o sistema elétrico do veículo de reboque! Os sensores encaixados nos fios do veículo detectam a aplicação de corrente elétrica e acionam as luzes do trailer. Nenhum corte ou emenda da fiação do veículo! Perfeito para veículos alugados. Use um módulo ModuLite quando: seu trailer tiver mais de um conjunto de luz por lado e estiver equipado com várias luzes de folga ou de circulação; se o veículo de reboque rebocar uma variedade de reboques; se o veículo de reboque tiver sensores de 'lâmpada apagada' ou outros componentes eletrônicos sensíveis que possam ser danificados pelo aumento do consumo elétrico. O ModuLite possui proteção integrada e reajustável contra curto-circuito e sobrecarga - protege a si mesmo e ao veículo de reboque contra curtos-circuitos e contratempos na instalação da fiação. Classificado em até 4,2 ampères para circuitos de giro/parada e 7,5 ampères para o circuito de luz traseira. Funciona em todos os tipos de veículos, incluindo sistemas padrão, PWM e/ou multiplex, garantindo brilho total das luzes do trailer durante a operação. Adapta veículos importados e nacionais com luzes de direção e parada separadas (sistema de 3 fios) à fiação padrão da lanterna traseira do trailer (sistema de 2 fios). Compatível com lâmpadas LED e/ou incandescentes no veículo de reboque e reboque. Funciona com veículos que possuem um interruptor de lado baixo. Inclui instruções de instalação abrangentes. Apoiado por Tekonsha. De suas origens humildes como fabricante de escadas e degraus para trailers em 1964, a Tekonsha evoluiu para se tornar um nome confiável em segurança de reboque. A linha principal de produtos consiste em controladores de freio, fiação elétrica e freios de reboque. A linha Tekonsha tem a confiança de torres profissionais e guerreiros de fim de semana para viagens sem preocupações.

Nenhuma unidade disponível

EAN: 0016118114812

Categorias Automotivo, Acessórios externos, Towing Products & Winches, Acessórios de engate Acessórios, Fiação,

5 amperes para circuitos de reboque de luz traseira. Funciona com veículos comutados de lado baixo. 2 amperes para virar/parar e 7. Isola a operação da luz do trailer do sistema elétrico do veículo de reboque. Apenas veículos com sistema de 12 volts. A tecnologia do sensor ZCI e a conexão direta com a bateria do veículo de reboque eliminam todas as conexões elétricas e interferências com o sistema elétrico do veículo de reboque. Funciona em todos os tipos de veículos, incluindo sistemas padrão, PWM e/ou multiplex, garantindo brilho total das luzes do trailer durante a operação; pode ser usado em sistemas de 2 ou 3 fios. Proteção reajustável contra curto-circuito/sobrecarga - protege a si mesmo e ao veículo de reboque contra curtos e contratempos na instalação da fiação; avaliado em 4,2 ampères para circuitos de virar/parar, 7,5 ampères para circuito de luz traseira. Use quando: o reboque tiver mais de 1 conjunto de luzes por lado e estiver equipado com várias luzes de folga ou de circulação; se o veículo de reboque puder rebocar uma variedade de reboques; se o veículo de reboque tiver sensores de 'lâmpada apagada'. Ativa as luzes de stop/turn/tail/running de um trailer sem cortar ou emendar o sistema de fiação do seu veículo - basta encaixar os sensores de corrente incluídos.

Brand	‎Tekonsha
Country of Origin	‎Mexico
Customer Reviews	4.2 4.2 out of 5 stars 187 ratings 4.2 out of 5 stars
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer	‎No
Item model number	‎119251
Item Weight	‎1.86 pounds
Manufacturer	‎Tekonsha
Manufacturer Part Number	‎119251
Model	‎119251
Product Dimensions	‎48 x 5 x 3.75 inches

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Scritto da: Cindy

Works great on our 2021 BMW X5

Husband writing this review, not that it matters. My wife just wants "to push the button and the thing works" with tech stuff, so you're stuck with me. I looked far and wide to find a wiring system that would work with a non-trailer-ready BMW (U-Haul said there was nothing out there - Ha!) I found more info than what was on Amazon on etrailer, and they had a decent video that really helped. And on their site, you put in your specific car and it tells you which harness/hitch/killer cassette stereo, whatever will work on your car. The Tekonsha 119251 kit was for ours. Went to the Tekonsha site just to compare prices, did the same exercise, and it came back with nope, there isn't anything that will work on your car. Well that's a wee bit troubling, right? I sent Tekonsha an email, got a response 2 hours later saying, yup, the 119251 is for you! Woohoo! So thanks for the GREAT info, etrailer and Tekonsha, but I bought the kit from Amazon where it was WAY cheaper, used the etrailer video to get me started, and went to the garage to rip out the innards of the back end of my wife's car. What you need to know first, is that this does work! Take your time, you'll get it. I think the hardest part is determining what setup your car is. And it's not exactly clear in the newer models. Is it a 2-wire, 3-wire, BT (brake/tail light multiplex), or a BTT (brake/tail/turn multiplex) system? On the BMW it has 4 wires going to the tail light assembly, so not a lot of clues there! I decided to start with what worked on the 2017 model that was in the etrailer video, meaning I was only going to hook up 3 of the 4 sensors, leaving out the Brake sensor which would imply (according to their instructions) that this was a 2-wire system (with 4 wires going to each light...so it makes total sense.) ???? The video said the turn signals were on a white with purple striped wire on the 2017, of course there was none of that in the 2021 model. But there WAS a purple wire with white stripe on both the driver and passenger sides. Let's give that bad boy a shot! There was also a green and blue wire in the bundle. The others were solid colors. After temporarily hooking up the sensors, I ran through the completely simple programming, attached the trailer and voila! Yeah, that didn't work. Turns out on the right (passenger) side, the blue and green was turn signal. I found that out by just trying it. Once I found out that only the multi-colored wires mattered, it was simple. Try it. If it doesn't work, switch the sensors. Try it again. It took me under 2 hours to finish once I got the panels off, and it works GREAT! Lessons learned: -Doesn't come with a trailer light tester or voltage sensor, both of which would be useful. You don't need them if you have patience and a trailer right next to your car in the garage. -The sensors are kind of big when you're trying to get them in the middle of tightly packed wire bundles, so plan to cut back on the tape or whatever is holding the wires together a little more than you think you need. -I went full high-tech during the install, using Scotch tape to hold the sensor and wire together until I found the combination I needed. Once done, took the tape off, and worked a while getting that foam tape stuff they send with the kit around the wire and sensor while not wrapping the other wires from the tight little bundle in there with them. It sounds simple, but if you heard the language coming out of my wife's car at that point, you may have a different take on it. -I used a zip tie (included in the kit) at a point about ¼"-⅜" below each sensor to hold the sensor and the entire wire bundle together. This also helps keep the sensor from sliding up and down the wire going over bumps. I don't know that it matters, but I was on a roll and was feeling it after hitting the right combination of sensors and wires, so why not? -Important note: I witnessed while having the sensors not set up right, that sometimes the trailer lights would remain on with the car completely unpowered. I also read online that this bad boy sucks battery juice all the time. So you need to either install an inline switch or just pull the fuse when not in use. I zip tied a ziplock bag (snack sized, fuses are small) to the yellow fuse wire, and have the fuse in there. Don't forget this if you're going boating! A dead battery in your car/truck will not make the Admiral happy at the boat ramp at the end of the day. I completed this conversion project yesterday, and other than being a little sore from playing contortionist (hey man, I'm almost 60), I'm pretty pleased with the kit and this whole process. The videos on etrailer are invaluable, so watch them first. Then go for it. You won't hurt your car, and if you've set it up wrong, just try again. The system is pretty simple once you understand it. I would highly recommend this to anyone who wants to hook up their own trailer wiring harness. Good luck and happy trailering.

Scritto da: Hiking Dude

2009 BMW 328i. NOT an electronically engineer. But I did it.

Wow. This was the most difficult upgrade I have done to my car. Nobody. I mean, nobody would install trailer wiring for my BMW. So I had to resort to installing this product myself. As a quick background, I installed a trailer hitch for my 2009 BMW 328i for the coming 3000-mile cross-country move. I got the hitch installed by Uhaul because I didn't have the time to install it on my car, and it came with an installation warranty and damage protection for breakdowns, among other benefits. BUT..... Uhaul wouldn't do the hitch wiring installation because, apparently, BMW tail light wires are too thin, and they don't want to risk messing up the electrical system. I called multiple mechanics, including BMW dealerships. But no one would do it !!!! So I did A LOT of research, then I came across this product. I had no option but to tackle this head-on. I'm the type of person who fixes my car, but electronic stuff was not something I ever touched, so it was challenging. I'm not gonna lie. There were doubts in my mind about everything I did when I was installing this. You can find me asking noob questions here in the questions section too. If you are in my situation--where you cannot find ANY trailer lighting installation info in the internet for 2009 BMW 328i, this is the solution here bro. It doesn't need cutting wires, so I didn't run the risk of messing up electrical wiring in other parts. Here is what I did: 1) I bought a multi-meter thing. Set the multimeter to 20V reading. I learned that car wires run anywhere from 15 to 25 volts of electricity at a given point in time. I didn't use the AMP setting because AMP requires a complete circuit, meaning the multi-meter has to be within the circuit of whatever I am testing. With a V reading, I just need to connect the black to ground (car battery has a ground), and touch the red pin to the tail light. I would turn on right turn signal and touch the multi-meter needle in different parts of the tail light connection to find which wire leads to a turn signal. 2) One of the most confusing thing I found was the fuse. I didn't know what fuse was, and I still don't know what it is. It sounds like it's something that blows up when there is too much electricity building up when I connect the positive wire to the product's black-box. This is really simple. The product comes with a 15 amp fuse. Just plug the fuse into the T-fuse insert. connect the T-fuse wire to the positive wires. This is in the instruction manual. Anyhow, when I tested after installing this, IT WORKED. Im so glad. I have a peace of mind now. Now, if you've done a lot of research like I have, you will notice that this product has one problem. It's that the tail lights will continue to be on, even after I turn off the engine. So, what I will do is basically unplug the 4-pin each time I have to leave the car, so it doesn't drain the car battery. I hope this helps :)

Scritto da: Theman & GF

Low risk to vehicle, but always on too.

So if you are looking at this it's because it can't really mess up your cars computer in anyway. Using electrical magic that we learned about in school it detects current in a wire without having to splice into it. That is great, and it does really well at that. The cons are - first off cost - it is way more than the other styles where you splice into the wires, but you shouldn't ever have to trace down a wire that turned green at a splice, and any lease returns won't be able to say anything. I did have to open up the looms a bit to get enough slack in the wires to clamp on. The second, biggest con to me is - it relies on having constant power. This makes it easy to wire up, as find any battery source and you are good to go. However that means it is always drawing on your battery, and if for some reason something messes up it can send power to your tow harness drawing down your battery. From memory as it was over a month ago I installed it - it pulled about 30 mA constantly, and of course more when you were activating it. That is close to what a lot of vehicles pulls themselves when off. It won't be a problem for daily drivers, but if it is sitting for a while it can be. If you choose to hook it up to ignition instead then you have to reprogram it each time - headlights on, then off, brake light on then off, right signal, on then off, left signal on then off - each about 5 seconds. Also a word of caution, the direction you install the clips on the wires matters - and sometimes you can't tell on the vehicle which way the current is flowing. For me it was a trial and error experiment. Also after a few drives in the snow the plug is already showing green on the end, which is OK because I'll be switching it to a 7 prong anyway, however it isn't the highest quality wire or plug. Another pro - everything was there to do the install - shy of for me some shrink tube and solder for connecting the fuse to the power wire and the eyelets to power and ground (it came with I believe heat shrink butt connectors, but I trust my own supplies more)

Scritto da: David Tran

It works as expected

Works as expected (so far). I literally installed the unit yesterday on my 2018 Audi Q5. I like this unit for ease of installation (no splicing) and the kit came with almost everything required. Tools are obviously separate while YouTube video for installation made the experience easy to follow. The actual process of removing panels on the vehicle was a different story and I estimate it took me 2 hours to complete the job. None the less it is complete and functional, and I would recommend this kit to others. As for long term quality time will tell.

Scritto da: Mark Boag

Worked great for about 1 month then failed

Worked great for a month then failed. Power stays on trailer all the time even after tow vehicle power has been shut off. Installer said product was defective. Trying to get money back plus I lost the cost of installation. Be careful when you buy!!

Scritto da: New Amazon Shopper

Wiring Harness uses Induction Technology without clipping into existing Wiring

Tekonsha ZCI™ Zero Contact Interface Universal ModuLite® & Installation Kit Wiring harness that uses Induction Technology that picks up towing vehicle signals and forwards them to the trailer wiring harness ....WITHOUT SPLICING into EXISTING wiring of the towing vehicle. Safer to use than splicing into wiring on cars that have sensitive sensor and computer systems. Product is as Advertised and was delivered a week before the expected Delivery time.

Scritto da: Augustine

Took a while to figure out but it works

After some trial and error, it works. It is important that you follow the installation instructions exactly. Also do watch the manufacturer's video about testing and installation. Also get a simple 4-wire tester prior installation, it speeds up wire selection if not able to get to harness plugs